Acne, for beginners

Saturday, 10 August 2013
All hail Olivia's perfect skin! Unless you have a team of dermatologists running after you, you (oh acne sufferer) will never look like this

Time to get down to business. Now, I know you all think I got to work all day and compare lipstick swatches (I wish!) but in reality, it's actually more than that. Beauty editors are not as shallow as you think, some would argue that they are the most scientific minds in the women's magazine industry - because you know, we talk about peptides and stuff...

Well, from my mere six months as a beauty journalist, I have learnt a LOT about my skin and makeup application. But the most important thing is how to manage breakouts for a lazy girl like me. 

I'm sorry but I don't have the time - nor am I bothered to slap 20 products on my face or feed my skin with every the whole alphabet of vitamins. I like simple, minimalist routines. You know that moment when you realise all your daily products fit into one beauty bag? Well, that's my ultimate fist pump moment, and I will do anything to reduce it to an even smaller bag.

So acne, the archenemy of every pore and a horrible daily occurrence that scars me - literally.

I've had cystic acne for yonks and can tell you, like every acne sufferer that I have tried EVERYTHING.

Yep, I've done the toothpaste, the organic skincare brands, the supposedly 'pore cleansing' masks, the tweezers (don't ask), the vitamin supplements and the worst of them all - Proactiv.

Just a little review of Proactiv - it was amazing while it lasted. It's just benzoyl peroxide, the same type you can buy from Priceline for $10. Basically, how it works is attack your skin until it becomes reliant and non-reactive to the benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide burns your skin (this is good for blemishes) and should only be used as a spot treatment. The whole Proactiv system is far too harsh for your skin on a daily basis - it kind of gets your skin addicted to the BANG BANG and then leaves it wanting more...until your wallet becomes empty. If you want to use Proactiv then you have to commit to a lifetime of it - yep a lifetime of the grainy scrub, stinging toner and this-makes-my-skin-flaky repair cream. 

Why? Well, as soon as you stop, this is what you will look like:

Scary, I know. This is actually a close-up of my face

It will dry and flake like the desert - you will find that you are slowly becoming that creepy old guy with the peeling skin in Austin Powers Goldmember.

Now that I've blurted out all the things that you shouldn't do, here's what you should.

Instead of attacking your skin, you need to calm it. Just think, if you break your arm, should you let it heal and strengthen again or hack at it until it falls off?

Pretty simple really, but too often I've chosen the latter.

When your skin is under stress, you need to help it get healthy again. Forget all the intensive creams and spot treatment gels - they might heal your pimple, but at the expense of losing the skin on the rest of your face! When your skin is strong and healthy, it will attack the blemishes on its own.

How, you may ask?

Well, do exactly what you do when your skin is good. Pamper it and feed it with good food. I find hydrating masks are usually good (I have dry to combination skin) and a thick, creamy moisturiser. I like plumping my skin when I'm blemished because it prevents the gross skin texture you get when you try concealing nasties.

Here are some products I use to treat irritated skin:
  1. The Clinique Moisture Surge Face Spray helps to touch up any dry patches throughout the day - I also use it as a toner. 
  2. Grown Alchemist's Polishing Facial Exfoliant is great for gentle exfoliation, it's not a sandy texture but more beady. 
  3. I find Payot generally amazing for my sensitive skin. It's definitely worth it! The Payot Eau Dermo-Micellaire is a gentle face makeup remover I use everyday (I've tried Bioderma, I like Payot better).
  4. Payot Masque Dermo-Apaisant is a wonderful hydrating mask.
  5. Ella Bache's Hydra Repulp feels like a rich creamy moisturiser - it's a mask you don't wash off. Your skin actually absorbs all the goodness!

It also goes without saying that a glowing face with a few blemishes is absolutely normal! Before, I concentrated on the spots and ignored the rest of my face, now I realise how wrong that was. Note to self: a cake of concealer is never a good idea, cracking paint on your face was never in. Above is the only spot treatment I use - it's a prescription only benzoyl peroxide cream (2.5%). 

In terms of daily maintenance, forget all the Clearasils and Clean & Clear ads. None of them work. None. They have no active ingredients, they are designed to smell good and feel good - that's it. I have two systems that I use: one for normal skin days and one for acne wars. Both ranges contain salicylic acid (I love that stuff so much I could eat it).

The Dermalogica MediBac range is targeted at those with acne. I highly recommend this if you have sensitive skin. It won't sting at all and there are not artificial fragrances. The Daily Microfoliant is the most gentle exfoliator I have ever used. When I travel, I only take with me the Clearing Skin Wash, Epiduo and Payot makeup remover.

I find Image Skincare a bit more intense than Dermalogica. It smells strange but I think there's a higher percentage of salicylic acid (yay!). It's also pretty nice to sensitive skin. 

In conclusion, I don't want you to go and buy all these products. I want you to learn from my mistakes and understand WHY I chose these products. If you are going to take anything away from this, it's that bad skin days = skin in need of pampering, not attack, and that benzoyl peroxide (small amounts) and salicylic acid are your best friends.

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